Friday, August 29, 2008

Retraction Time

Ok, I was going to do this post yesterday, but the Internet was not co-operating. As has been already pointed out by a comment of the last post, not a single thing in my last post referenced the title Tri-Lingual. Let me take you in for a sneak peek of my writing style.

Not that I am channeling a stream of consciousness, ala James Joyce, but I just sit down and start writing. Yeah I try and remember the more memorable portions of the last few days, but a focused structure I lack. Basically I just imagine that I am having a conversation with somebody who agrees with absolutely everything that I say. Which is precisely the reason why I have to imagine such a person, being highly unlikely that such an individual exists. So if you ever wonder where I am heading with something, so am I.

What I meant to tackle with the last title, was the difficulty picking up language in the countryside. Kiswahili is not that hard of a language to pull from, but Kenya is a tribal republic. There are 42 or 47 different tribes here, and they all have there own dialect. It is most common to find people speaking those dialects out in the rural areas. Some people who are travelled can speak and understand numerous of these languages. I am struggling enough with Kiswahili and have no clue when somebody switches over to Kalenjin or some other tribal speak. I rely on someone to go, "Hey he just greeted you in tribal language". Which garners a response of, " Ooh, didn't catch that either". The similarities are indistinguishable and it really doesn't make me any more confused. Just that if I were bright enough to remember any of those words and think I picked up a new Kiswahili nugget. I would fail miserably when I introduce my new find into any one of my three Kiswahili conversational topics.

When I was in Eldoret, I had the pleasure of eating a hamburger. Actually pretty funny because I am not a hamburger guy in the US. Not that I am a health nut, far from it, but some things really bring you back home. I have met a fellow American here in Kapsabet, and he is practically a local, knowing Kiswahili and all. He has really helped me out and shown me the ropes around here. We picked up a few essentials that are not available out here in the country. Cereal, crackers and a bag of roasted/salted peanuts among the good finds.

It is not that I do not enjoy the food, but I have stewed cabbage and ugali with about every evening meal. Not sure if my digestive tract is thanking or cursing me. Last night we actually went over to my new American friend's house for his BDay dinner, including mash potatoes, which I promptly had thirds.

It looks like the rain is slowly starting to back off, from its' daily appearances. Which makes training much more enjoyable, since the roads are in much better condition when allowed to stay dry.

Today was another one of those big group runs. We met at 6:30 am and the weather was maybe high 50's and the sun was barely peeking out. I just said forget the status quo and wore shorts & running tee. This is compared to the long tights and full windbreakers of everyone else. I know that by 7am it will be in the high 60's and I can't stand being sweating like a pig for another 60min.

We meandered for about 20min at a leisurely pace, until we reached a familiar hill that usually takes about 15 min to climb. Today I made sure to stay near the front of the group, to avoid any delayed surges from dropping me if I wasn't paying attention. I felt better as the group pulsed up the hill, and I held my own sufficiently while conversations all died down. Once we plateaued on a ridge a few people got chatty again. But as usual I have only a relative hint where I am located. So that keeps me pretty much on task of not getting dropped, which I held just fine. The run finished up a tarmac road about 1 mile back to the starting junction.

Most group runs here turn into a big kick sometime over the last mile. I prepared for the increased pace. I held the front group until about 400m to go, and they gapped me by about 5-10yds, but my pace was still jamming. A short little guy, probably about 96 lbs. little, didn't seem too pleased that a mizungu was so comfortably climbing the hill alongside him. He laid down about 5 mini -surges which I basically ignored and held pace, but resulted in him getting caught each time brought great enjoyment to some fellow runners behind us. I turned and smiled laughing which brought roars of laughter among them. Little man was none too pleased and raced his guts to finish 1/2 a step ahead of me, to his buddies delight.

We finished the run in 1hr 20min, how far I don't know. If I were to try and guess the pace of runs. We start around 7:30-8:00 for 10-15 min, then 5:50-6:30 for a good period of time and then much faster for roughly the last 10min of every run. I have been told that this group used to just hammer like madmen every run, but upon lack luster competition results, just save it for speed workouts now. I am really starting to feel comfortable training, and don't feel embarrassed of the thought of getting dropped.

As usual thanks for the comments, they are great and hopefully I touch on most questions.

Wednesday, August 27, 2008

Tri-Lingual?

Thanks for all the great comments so far everyone. I will try and hit on all the questions.

I am doing well here in Kapsabet, actually currently in Eldoret enjoying a modern-esque internet connection speed. At this point I have not tried to upload any photos, due to the slow upload speeds of computers in town. Although I think I will try and put them on a CD and compress them and see if I can post some shots that way.

We have been slogging through daily rains here in Kapsabet. When it rains the roads become absolute muck for the next 12 hours. Which seems to cancel many evening run opportunities and just long enough to turn your shoes into earth encrusted moon boots. I literally almost slide down hills because I have an inch thick layer of reddish mud covering any tread on my shoes. Which brings me to tell you about our Saturday afternoon activities. Shoe washing! These guys take washing shoes to an elite level (compared to the lowly amateur ranks). Since we don't run on Sundays, shoes can have the opportunity to dry on the line . I'll break down the process: laces out, insoles out, shoes in bucket of water for a few hours, detergent added, vicious scrubbing commences for about 30-40min, rinsed in cleaner bucket of water, laces scrubbed and then hung with shoes on the line.

I kid you not. These shoes could pass off as brand spanking new. I was blown away when I was shown my shoes on Sunday. It's not all for vanity though, because the dust/mud cause quite a caked mess on your shoes in barely a week. The mud is a tenacious variety that hardens quickly on shoes, rendering them to the same flexibility of that old 3rd baseman's mitt you found in your parent's attic. So that is why we wash shoes almost weekly.

Exercising is not common here in Kenya, especially outside any main city. No one runs unless they have dreams of becoming an elite runner. There is no jogging boom here. The percentage of elite/jogger ratio is probably flipped here, in comparison to say the Cooper River Bridge run or any huge road race. So of all the runners here, 98% are elites. Still takes some getting used to seeing sub 14min or even sub 13 min 5k guys on every corner of town.

What do people do for work in Kapsabet? Various things really. The outlying region here is all farms of maize, and tea mostly. The Rift Valley region is one of the most fertile places in the world. There are a lot of cows, goats, sheep and donkeys roaming about town, many seemingly owner-less. We avoid routes for running that are dog infested, with good reason. Many people work at road side stands, selling various wares. Due to the infrastructure difficulties relating to road conditions, there aren't any big industries out here. I have noticed a size able amount of jobless folks (mostly men) who hang about petrol/market areas. Everyone walks pretty much every where here. You can pay 10 shillings to get a backseat bicycle ride, saving a 15min walk, but you get blasted by diesel smoke of passing vehicles as a treat.

Training today was what I dreamed running in Kenya would be like. About 50 guys met up this morning at 6:30am and headed off for about 60min planned run. It is in my best interest keep up because I never know where I am, every dirt road looks the same and twists without reason. The run started slow-ish for about 25 min then it really got going. Just like a cycling peleton the back of the group experiences the whiplash the worst. Every surge seems to coincide with a hill, and me having the maximum amount of mud caked to my shoes. I held on fine towards the back end and then the last paved hill back into town, was a blistering pace. I plan on hopping in a 10k race or two while I am over here, pretty sure I will be humbled beyond belief. I really do feel a lot better breathing and altitude adjustment-wise, which is a huge relief.

Hopefully I can make some headway on photos and possibly get them up. Thanks for all the comments, and don't worry about sending me anything. I am able to get most items in Eldoret, if necessary. Hope everyone is well.

Monday, August 25, 2008

Red Carpet

Ok before I start into my post, I must congratulate my wife Jenny. She just completed the Chicago triathlon. By completed I mean she WON THE ENTIRE THING, finishing 19th overall men included! This race had 8700 racers! The Pros raced a different course and she would have placed 11th if you used her time. Way to go Jenny! I wish I could have been there to watch you.


Alright I have had a few comments and emails now about the food over here. Well pretty much everything is fresh produce, that ends up getting stewed in a single pot over a kerosene camp stove. Pretty much every evening we have Ugali with our meals. Ugali consists of maize flour mixed with water, and heated until it firms up into a steaming loaf. It's pretty bland, but you are supposed to just grab at it with your hands and then cover whatever the main entree is with it then eat. Utensils have been sparing, and most meals are eaten with our hands, make that just your right hand. Culturally the left hand is taboo, used for other unscrupulous tasks mainly. I don't eat that much meat, and when I do it is goat. Thankfully I bear no strong ties to any goats back home. The meat isn't bad, but I struggle with the bones all over the place. The butcher pretty much indiscriminately hacks at a huge hunk of meat with an axe, regardless of bone-meat location.

Now to the red carpet treatment. Last night I got to tour a dairy cooling plant, down the road from my house. All because I am the town white guy! They were all fired up to teach me how the farmers bring the milk and it is chilled and then the cans are returned to the farmers. It was actually pretty cool process to check out. We scored a jug of clean water and a tea kettle of free milk from one of the silos too. That's right I have made some huge connections.
Every time I go over to someones house for tea or a meal, that bend over backwards. The hospitality is unreal, and I am blown away every time. Well I got to eat special ugali and porridge from a different type of darker flour. Not too shabby actually. Everyone I meet has been saying I need to try Soh milk, a Kalenjin traditional milk. It is boiled (I hope) and then put into a gourd for up to one year. It is usually only brought out for special occasions or guests. Well I had my first taste the other day. When asked my opinion, after waiting for the room to stop spinning, I replied, "It's interesting". I didn't have to heart to mention the presence of chunks would lead to believe the shelf life inside the gourd, might be significantly less than one year. Maybe in the one week time frame. I grimaced enough to bring my glass below the halfway mark, and hoped no one would stare. I didn't die later on, which I view as a huge positive.

Also have been asked about the plumbing situation. There are 8 units of living quarters, broken into 2 buildings where I live. There are plumbing fixtures but just for laughs. There is a big water tank near the latrines that people use to fill up. Anything plumbing wise is done manual style. When I say shower, I mean boil some water, cool it off, then go into a 3x4 room with a hole in the wall to the outside. I then splash that water on myself until I figure I am cleaner than I started. Bathrooms, there are two options, public vs. private. We share access to a private latrine with one other unit, kept under lock and key. Inside there you would find a toilet that has been covered with concrete just showing the operational end. Once again, manual is the word, you take a bucket to dismiss your work. The public is a fly infested hole, that bears use only when you are urgent, or far too lazy to get the key to the private one. Oh yeah I bought toilet paper (worried I wouldn't find it), looking silly after stealing handfuls at the airports on my arriving flights.

Training:
I think I am rounding the bend of adjusting to the altitude. I am still obscenely tired after training but I am holding up better during each run. I have also shaken all but the last bits of my cold, that emerge 30 min mid run in hacking form.
This morning I ran 1:23 for I don't know how many km. Every time I ask how far I have gone I get an guesstimate answer that seems completely made up on the spot. So I am just tracking my training by time for now. I will start hills and fartlek (ex. 2 min hard-1 min easy for 30 min) workouts this week.

Hope all is well, and I really like all the posts from everyone.

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Not Soo Fast

Well I am back on the mend already. Got some antibiotics in town and I have shook all but the last remnants of the cold, that had knocked me back over the weekend. I was even able to run the past two days.
Yesterday I ran for 45 minutes but felt significantly weaker and was only up for slogging through the run. Trying to tackle the terrain here at less than 100% is not very pleasant and I felt it the second that we finished. This is even after completing what was said to be an "easy" route, which contained to separate hills that took about 5 min each to climb.
Today was a bit better at 56 min and finishing at a nice clip. Although I am still hacking up gross stuff, thankfully in this rural area spitting/snot-rockets are not a frowned upon activity. I get so many children greeting me with "How are you?" on my runs that I have to save my breath and just wave. Pretty sure they do not understand that I am currently at a genetic disposition to breathing and talking at this altitude. For me I can barely do both while running!
No one really stretches here or does any sort of weight lifting. At first I thought, 'Hey this is great my kinda philosophy', but then a lot of these guys have nagging injuries that they can't explain. Most of them are hip or IT band issues, which would lead to believe that stretching is still beneficial. Once I feel better, I plan on engaging in some body weight exercises as well as my usual stretching routine.
I also have realized how gradual I must take my adjustment here. After being told by knowledgeable people in the US, that it takes about 4 weeks to adapt to the altitude then you start to benefit. Well as far as the adapting is concerning..... I believe you. So I doubt I will be stepping onto the track until the end of September range. Until then I plan on just doing long runs, fartleks, and hill workouts. I think that should fill my plate just fine.

Hope everyone is well! Great to see USA take 2 heat of the 5k last night!

Tuesday, August 19, 2008

GOT SICK!

Well since my last post I have come down with what appears to be a common cold. Started to get a fever on Saturday night, and returns every afternoon, along with a cough/sore throat. The roommate had the same thing a few days earlier, so I am not too worried. It is pretty tough to stay calm when you have a fever here in Africa, and keep your mind from jumping to conclusions. I picked up some meds from the pharmacist yesterday and already I feel back on track.
Took today off of training to give myself a chance to recover fully. I don't think I was doing myself any favor by running yesterday though. Sunday and Monday sure hadn't shaken the beating from Saturday, my butt hurt so bad that the only that didn't make me wince was actually going uphill! I have met half of the town and probably 85% of the athletes here, with 75% of them still convinced I am coach/manager who can give them $$ or a passport to races.
Locals have informed me that the rainy season here is during April, but it has rained every single day that I have been here. When it does we just wait until about 11 AM to run, giving the roads a chance to dry out. Running around here it's impossible to find any route devoid of hills. The general format that most the athletes follow on a basic run; shuffle jog 10min, easy pace 10 min, mod pace rest of run and hard pace last 1-2km. Everyone wheres long sleeves and sweatsuits, if not they wear tights. I tried it but feel like a wrestler trying to drop a few pounds. I already stick out, so who cares if I am the only one in short sleeves and shorts?
They eat big portions here of ugali, rice, lentils and anything else they are serving. We purchase fresh fruits and veggies from the market stand most evenings, for our meals. So the food situation is not bad at all. Although I relegated to drinking bottled water all the time for precaution.
I have been watching the Olympics, and marvel at international coverage of T&F. They show every event and all participants, with minimal blabbering or sob stories. Roommates and friends were pretty fired up yesterday after Kenya took 2 golds, 1 silver & bronze in Men 3kSC and Wmn 800m.

If anyone has any questions about what it's like out here I would love to answer them.
Hope all is well in USA.

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Q: Why Are Kenyans So Good? A: Hills + Altitude

I have been getting by pretty well so far training. But today I was served of piping hot plate of Kenyan style training. I am not sure if I have run harder before, but I can guarantee that I have never been so tired.
My travelling buddy Bernard was out visiting relatives, and I was left under the guidance of a local friend, who happens to just run on the European track circuit. We meet up and pick up a few 13:30 road racing guys, along the way. After a 40 min warmup(!) rolling through the rural countryside, we came upon a rotten looking hill that dropped down out of sight. Isaac, the group leader, said, " Ok we will do 15 repeats up this 300m hill which will equal 1 hr of hills. I tried to not show my fear, so I just peed over by a fencepost (which I was informed is acceptable anywhere in Kenya).
We ran it sort of Indian run style, in a line with each guy taking a turn at the front. The first 6 were at an easy pace, and then it was game time. After #6 on I was told that 'the pace may increase' translation just get ready for all the countryside kids to laugh at you as the pack Kenyans destroy you up this hill. I could manage to hang the first half but come the last 150m the pitch increased and everytime I was droppped handily.
#10 saw the most talkative guy quit in the middle of a repeat. That was the last thing I needed, an excuse, but I remembered why I came here. From there on, they insisted I start when it was my turn, but always halfway in saw 3 wooshing bodies lope past me. My lungs hurt like nothing I have every experienced in my life, and my legs cursed me for the dripfeed of oxygen they demanded. I picked up pace on all of them relatively but still got dropped on each. When we finished, the less fluent in English guys said to Isaac, "This man I do not want to race in 3 months". It was a nice compliment, but I can't tell if it was their version of a pity clap.

Sum it up, I have started to train like I expected. Time to buckle tight.

Thursday, August 14, 2008

Bad Dog!

I am finally settling into life here in Kapsabet. Locals are aghast when I greet them in Swahili, then reassured when I blankly stare back from there reply questions. I have had a whirlwind time these past few days.

Yesterday I met with 3-time Londn marathon winner Martin Lel. I got the opportunity to have my picture taken with him and his 30 man training squad. He absolutely blew me away with how genuine he was, while we had a 5-10 minute conversation. This all coming from a guy who many say has best chance at Gold in Beijing in the marathon.

Training yesterday was probably the hardest day yet, and laid hurt on me. I conked out in bed before we left for Eldoret in the morning. The hills disappear into the mist on morning runs, for poems that's nice, but not so much for running. I had an easy 40min run today and finally shook out all the exhaustion. My quads burn in a new way, they just gasp for oxygen and there is none to spare here! All in all though I feel strong and confident into joining one of the main training groups next week.

Dogs. Yes they have them here. Yes they are cute here too. Here they want to bite your hand or nearest limb off. As was told to me dogs are 'arrogant', couldn't really grasp that phrasing. But then I walked up to one and it kinda gave me a tough guy stance saying 'Think long and hard buddy'. Well for now I will just saving the petting until I get back home for my dog.

Wednesday, August 13, 2008

Safe in the Country

Alright! I have been out of communication for a while, but I have now landed in my final destination of Kapsabet, Kenya. I would have posted earlier, but Internet was running at about 1 bit/min the last two days, and I am taking a day trip today to Eldoret.

Since I last posted I have experienced some of the most wild/jarring transportation ever in my life. Basic point A-B transport is done by matatu. Which is a van with room for about 10-15 people judging on how tight you pack them. The drivers do laps from one point to the other and ferry people along the way. They are beyond reckless in their pursuit to increase efficiency. I just try and sit in the back now and avoid looking ahead, which would just stress me out even more. Driving in Nairobi was like a snow globe of cars just endlessly being shaken.
The road out to the country was smooth for about 3 hrs and then, switched to the bumpiest ride I have ever had on a "road". It is amazing that buses and big rigs take these severely pot-holed roads.
Finally arrived in Kapsabet, and some of Bernard's friends met us at the bus stop and helped with our bags to the house 400yds away. For the standards that I had viewed out the window and running around since, we are not living bad. We have electricity and 4 rooms, 2 bedrooms, a sitting room and a kitchen room. The kitchen houses a kerosene camp stove where all our meals our cooked. Besides Bernard and myself, two other guys live there. They are runners as well, but do not seem to be as serious.
Compared to Nairobi, Kapsabet people are unbelievable. Every single person (after getting over the shock of my skin color) are bend over backwards nice and everyone has invited us over for tea. The country side is beautiful, and the hills roll everywhere. I would guess this town has maybe roughly 10,000 people surrounding and no lie I think 1,000 are elite if not world class runners. I have never seen so many runners flying around in groups training. The town track is a bees nest of activity.
I have been reading a bunch, and finished all my novels already. I read the bible everyday, and if I want a headache open a computer programming book my boss, David, gave me. My roommates listen to Kenny Rogers and N'Sync on full blast at all hours, which doesn't really bother me because it could be way worse. I just never expected to hear 'The Gambler' at 6:15 am in Kenya!

Training:
For our runs we rise at before dawn and shuffle outside, for anywhere from 45-90 min run. This week is supposed to be a just get acclimated week, but we have run some of the hardest routes already. Thankfully have been able to keep up, and the few extra days in Nairobi seems to have helped a lot.
This morning I met with Martin Lel before he went out to run with his group of 30 runners in tow. It was amazing to meet a Beijing gold medal hopeful, up close and we had a nice conversation. It is amazing how welcoming he was. People yell at me from their homes 'Welcome to Kenya" or 'Karibu!'. Thankfully I have picked up a little bit of Swahili and can thank people and greet them.
I am feeling pretty good training but naps afterwards are a must to recover. I am going to have to adjust to eating less, and drinking copious amounts of Kenyan tea (roughly 10 cups a day!). H

I hope everyone is well and I appreciate the messages people have left.
Neil

Thursday, August 7, 2008

It's Africa Time!

After about 33 hours of travel time, I landed in Nairobi Intl Airport last night. At my 2nd connection in Detroit, I was informed via phone that my friend had completely missed his flight, which was supposed to land 2hrs after mine in Nairobi. So there goes my guide. He will show up on Friday hopefully.

I was assured though that the friend who was going to pick us up from the airport, was still going to pick me up though. I did my best not to be too bothered by this hiccup. The friend sounded stand up, so no worries. As I pick my bag up at baggage claim, a miracle in the fact of how many connections I had, I headed out to the crowd of people holding up name cards. Did about 2 full laps back and forth to see if any variation of my name was being held up.

NOPE.
Well that's just great. A very insistent cabbie let me use his office phone to try and call the friend. This phone has been turned off.
Awesome. So I call my Kenyan buddy and his Uncle in the USA and they try and arrange a ride for me. It is starting to get late and this is not going to work out. I finally give in the cabbie, and let him help me book a room for the night and try my efforts in the morning. So I relent and we make the arrangements and leave my info at the office for me friends to get relayed where I am.

So we get into the cab, oh yeah forgot to mention, THIS GUY ONLY HAS ONE ARM! I knew driving in Africa was not going to be your garden variety commuting. Well I just checked my nerves at the door and totally trusted my coughing one armed cabbie, who seemed to be aiming for potholes to gain advantage in traffic. The potholes we hit would make some off-roading Americans think twice, but we hit them all just fine in the suspension-less Corolla. After the nice shake up we got to hotel, myself a few mosquito friends of mine locked ourselves in a mosquito net for the night. Filled with biting and sweating, I had to evict them at 3:30am.

Thankfully Bernard's friend rang my room in the AM, and I met up with him. He works down the block and is going to get me more reasonable accommodations. Sorry for the long post, might not be able to post for a few days, but upside I am safe in Nairobi and just waiting to head to the training camp area.

Take care for now!

Sunday, August 3, 2008

Test

Test

First Post

If you want to be kept up to date, feel free to check back or sign up for email alerts. Thanks for all the words of encouragement from friends and family these past few weeks.